seogwipo
Just 300 meters from where my grandfather's house once stood, a 16th-century Joseon fortress almost vanished into downtown Seogwipo — torn apart by Japanese rule, the 4·3 upheaval, and decades of urban sprawl. Here is how Seogwijinji came back, and what is left to see today.
jeju travel
A quiet seaside village on Jeju's west coast, Gwideok-ri hides a small hill with wide sea views, a vanished spring in the rocks, and the legend of Yeongdeung Halmang — the wind goddess who brings spring to the island.
myeongwoljinseong
Myeongwoljinseong, the largest of Jeju's nine garrison fortresses, was built in 1510 and rebuilt in stone in 1592 to defend the island's northwest coast. Walk the restored south gate and barbican, and trace the hidden remnants of a fortress that once anchored Jeju's coastal defense.
plane-spotting
Yongduam Haechon sits on the coastal road just east of Jeju Airport — one of the better plane-spotting spots on the island. Also: old photos, a kid who wanted to be a pilot, and 2026.
hidden jeju
The Jeju Haenyeo Anti-Japanese Movement Memorial Park commemorates one of Korea's most remarkable acts of resistance — a women-led uprising born from the sea. Discover the stories of the haenyeo who defied colonial rule and shaped history.