seogwipo
Just 300 meters from where my grandfather's house once stood, a 16th-century Joseon fortress almost vanished into downtown Seogwipo — torn apart by Japanese rule, the 4·3 upheaval, and decades of urban sprawl. Here is how Seogwijinji came back, and what is left to see today.
myeongwoljinseong
Myeongwoljinseong, the largest of Jeju's nine garrison fortresses, was built in 1510 and rebuilt in stone in 1592 to defend the island's northwest coast. Walk the restored south gate and barbican, and trace the hidden remnants of a fortress that once anchored Jeju's coastal defense.
jeju history
A walk along the Byeoldo Hwanhaejangseong — Jeju's ancient coastal defense wall in Hwabuk-dong — and the layered history behind every stone, from the Goryeo period to the present day.
jeju history
Deep in eastern Jeju, a 600-year-old fortress wall still stands — surrounding a schoolyard. Susan Jinseong, built in 1439 to defend against coastal raiders, survived because a village school made it home. A fortress that found a second life.