Ilchulland
For twenty years I skipped Ilchulland because the name sounded dated. Walking in this summer, the 1,700-metre Micheongul lava tube and the surprisingly well-kept garden above it forced me to revisit a lot of lazy preconceptions about Jeju's east coast.
Onpyeong-ri
Onpyeong-dong Port — a sleepy fishing harbor at the eastern edge of Seongsan that also holds Tamna's founding myth, the working memory of the haenyeo, and the centuries-old Hwanhae-jangseong coastal wall, all stacked along the same six kilometers of basalt shore.
jeju history
Deep in eastern Jeju, a 600-year-old fortress wall still stands — surrounding a schoolyard. Susan Jinseong, built in 1439 to defend against coastal raiders, survived because a village school made it home. A fortress that found a second life.